LONDON: The takeover of British heritage shoemaker Russell & Bromley by high-street retailer Next underscores the growing challenges faced by independent legacy brands in the UK fashion industry. Although the deal has saved Russell & Bromley from administration, it is anticipated to lead to job losses and potential store closures. Reports suggest that more than 30 outlets could close.
Founded in 1880 in Sussex, Russell & Bromley was one of the few remaining independently owned footwear brands in Britain, renowned for its craftsmanship and understated luxury. The company had been controlled by the same family for five generations and was also favored by Princess Diana, enhancing its profile.
The acquisition comes as fashion retail on the British high street experiences a broader decline. Research indicates that fashion has been one of the fastest-shrinking sectors, with consumers increasingly turning to online shopping and cheaper fast-fashion alternatives. Independent mid- to high-end brands have faced significant competition from supermarkets and clothing chains expanding into footwear markets.
Russell & Bromley’s sale follows other recent ownership changes in this sector. Heritage sports shoe brand Gola, founded in Leicester in 1905, was acquired by Japanese conglomerate Marubeni as demand surged for retro trainers. Despite celebrity endorsements over decades, Gola struggled to compete with global giants such as Nike and Adidas.
Experts argue that these cases highlight how difficult it has become for independent British footwear brands to survive in an industry increasingly dominated by large conglomerates. The UK footwear sector has also been affected by the long-term decline of domestic manufacturing. While Northampton is known for men’s shoemaking, factories in cities like Leicester began closing from the 1980s as production shifted to countries such as Brazil, India, and China, offering lower costs and higher volumes.
Next’s expansion into footwear also reflects broader changes in retail. Since opening its first store in 1982 and later introducing home delivery through the Next Directory, the company has helped shape a market where shoppers can buy clothing and matching shoes from the same retailer.
Despite these pressures, Russell & Bromley continued to perform strongly into the 21st century, supported by its high-end positioning and “Made in Italy” products. However, rising costs and an unfavorable retail environment may have contributed to its collapse.
Analysts warn that the mid- to high-price footwear segment, where Russell & Bromley sits, is increasingly being squeezed between budget retailers and luxury designer brands. While the ownership of both Russell & Bromley and Gola has changed, both brands are expected to continue under their new owners, preserving a legacy of British footwear heritage built on craftsmanship and tradition.